You are using an outdated browser. For a faster, safer browsing experience, upgrade for free today.


The souks north of Jemaa el-Fnaa are not one market but a network of them, historically organised by trade, and much of it still is. Understanding that layout is the difference between wandering hopelessly and finding what you came for. So is understanding bargaining, which is not a game or a confrontation but simply how prices are set in an economy without price tags.

How the souks are organised


The main spine is Souk Semmarine, running north from the square. From it, lanes branch off by trade:



  • Souk Semmarine — textiles, kaftans, scarves, the most tourist-facing stretch.

  • Souk el-Kebir — leather, bags and babouche slippers.

  • Souk Cherratine — leatherworkers, the place to buy genuinely well-made bags and belts.

  • Souk Haddadine — ironwork and metal, loud with hammering, and one of the most interesting to watch.

  • Souk Sebbaghine — the dyers’ souk, with skeins of wool drying overhead in blocks of colour.

  • Souk Chouari — carpenters and thuya wood.

  • Souk Attarine — spices, perfumes and cosmetics.

  • Souk Zrabia (La Criée Berbère) — the rug market, with auctions in the late afternoon.

  • Place des Ferblantiers — lanternmakers, near the Bahia Palace, and less pressured than the central souks.


Go in the morning, roughly 09:30 to 12:00, when craftsmen are working rather than only selling. The afternoon is hotter, busier and more commercial.

What is genuinely worth buying


Rugs and carpets


The best purchase in Morocco and the one that requires most care. Broad types: Beni Ourain (thick cream wool with dark geometric lines, from the Middle Atlas), Azilal (brighter, freer designs), kilim or hanbel (flat-woven, no pile, much cheaper and easier to carry), and boucherouite (rag rugs made from recycled fabric, cheap and characterful).


How to check: turn it over — hand-knotted rugs have visible individual knots on the reverse and slight irregularity, machine-made ones are perfectly uniform with a glued or mesh backing. Burn-test threads are offered by sellers; real wool smells of burnt hair and self-extinguishes, synthetic melts and smells of plastic. Ask where it was made and who made it; a good dealer knows and will tell you.


Leather


Bags, poufs, belts, jackets, babouche slippers. Check the stitching first — even, tight, no loose ends — and the smell: genuine vegetable-tanned leather smells earthy, not chemical. Soft goat leather is the Moroccan speciality. Poufs are usually sold unstuffed, which is fine because they pack flat.


Ceramics


Safi and Fes pottery, tagine dishes, bowls and tiles. Ask whether a tagine is decorative or cookable — many glazed ones are not, and you want unglazed or food-safe clay if you intend to cook. Check for hairline cracks by tapping: a clear ring is good, a dull thud is not.


Argan oil


The cosmetic version should be pale gold and almost odourless; the culinary version is roasted, darker and nuttier. Buy from a women’s cooperative if you can, ideally in the Essaouira–Agadir argan belt where it is produced. Sold in a plastic bottle at a suspiciously low price, it is almost certainly cut with something else.


Spices and food


Ras el hanout, cumin, saffron, preserved lemons, dates, amlou (argan-almond spread). Saffron deserves care: real saffron is deep red threads that stain water yellow-gold slowly. Anything bright orange and cheap is safflower. Buy small quantities.


Metalwork and lanterns


Pierced brass and copper lanterns, trays, teapots. Lanterns pack badly but are among the most distinctive things you can buy. Ask whether a teapot is food-safe if you plan to use it.


Thuya wood


Inlaid boxes and bowls from the Essaouira region, made from the root burl of the thuya tree. Check the end grain to be sure it is solid wood and not veneered board.


Also worth it


Wool blankets and throws, vintage kaftans, a shesh (desert scarf), black soap and a kessa glove for your own hammam at home, and Fassi blue-and-white ceramics if you get to Fes.

How to haggle


Bargaining is normal, expected and not adversarial. The seller opens high because that is the convention; you are expected to counter. Here is how it works in practice.



  1. Look at several shops first before buying anything. Without a sense of the range you have no basis for negotiating.

  2. Only start if you actually want it. Negotiating and walking away at the end wastes the seller’s time and is genuinely rude.

  3. Let them name a price first. If pressed, deflect: “I don’t know, what is your best price?”

  4. Counter at roughly a third of the opening price, politely and with a smile. In the main tourist souks opening prices are often three to four times the expected final figure.

  5. Move slowly and in small increments. Expect three or four rounds. Rushing to your maximum removes your room.

  6. Decide your walk-away number before you start and hold it.

  7. Walking away works, and being called back is normal. Do it without drama.

  8. Cash in small notes strengthens your position; “this is all I have” only works if it looks true.

  9. Buy several things from one seller for a better total.

  10. Accept the tea. It is hospitality, not obligation, and the conversation usually improves the price.

  11. Stay friendly throughout. Humour works far better than firmness. Aggression makes prices go up, not down.

  12. When you agree, you have agreed. Pay and be pleased. Do not reopen it.


Two exceptions: shops with marked fixed prices (increasingly common, and often good value) and cooperatives do not bargain. And for genuinely fine rugs, the margins are narrower than in the trinket trade — a third of the opening price is unrealistic there.

Avoiding the common problems



  • Do not follow anyone who approaches you offering to show you a workshop, a tannery or a “special Berber market”. It ends in a commission-paying shop.

  • “This lane is closed today” is almost always untrue.

  • Guides take commission. A licensed guide is invaluable for the medina’s history, but if they steer you into a shop, remember the price includes their cut. Shop separately from your guided day.

  • Shipping. Reputable rug dealers arrange international shipping and it usually works, but get a written receipt with a description, price and tracking. For anything expensive, pay by card so you have recourse.

  • “Antique” and “Tuareg silver” are usually neither. Buy because you like the object.

  • Photographs of craftsmen — ask first.

  • Keep your bearings. The souks are a maze. Note the gate you entered by, and save an offline pin for your riad.

Where else to shop


If the souks feel like too much, three calmer options: the fixed-price artisan complexes near Place des Ferblantiers and on Avenue Mohammed V, the Quartier des Habous in Casablanca, and Essaouira, where the hard sell is much softer and thuya wood and blankets are local specialities.

See the souks with someone who knows them


Our private Marrakech city tour includes the souks with a licensed local guide who will explain the trades and take you to working craftsmen rather than commission shops. Ask us if you are after something specific — a rug in particular is worth advice before you buy.


Frequently Asked Questions
How much should I haggle in the Marrakech souks?

In the main tourist souks, opening prices are often three to four times the expected final figure, so counter at roughly a third and expect three or four rounds. Fine rugs have narrower margins, and shops with marked fixed prices and cooperatives do not bargain at all.

How can I tell if a Moroccan rug is handmade?

Turn it over. A hand-knotted rug shows individual knots on the reverse and slight irregularity in the pattern; a machine-made one is perfectly uniform with a glued or mesh backing. Real wool, when a thread is burned, smells of burnt hair and self-extinguishes rather than melting.

What is the best thing to buy in Marrakech?

A rug, if you are prepared to learn a little first, since it is the item where quality and value differ most. Otherwise leather from Souk Cherratine, ceramics, argan oil from a cooperative, spices, wool blankets and pierced brass lanterns.

How do I spot fake argan oil and saffron?

Cosmetic argan oil should be pale gold and almost odourless, and culinary argan darker and nutty; a suspiciously cheap plastic bottle is usually cut with another oil. Real saffron is deep red threads that colour water yellow-gold slowly, while bright orange cheap threads are safflower.

What time of day is best for the souks?

Between about 09:30 and 12:00, when craftsmen are working at their trades rather than only selling and the lanes are cooler and less crowded. Afternoons are hotter, busier and more purely commercial.